Reviews

A rich, plummy Beaune, this is filled with juicy sweetness in the middle, restricted by smoky tannins in the end. Those coffee-scented tannins remain tender and gentle, creating a mouthwatering finish that keeps you coming back for another sip.

A bright Barbaresco—this opens with a fresh, floral quality that recalls blue flower and pressed rose. Beyond those aromas are layers of almond skin, ginger, cola and hazelnut. It’s an elegant and fine expression that needs five more years of cellar aging.

Dark and fleshy, delivering ganache, black tea and mulled plum fruit backed by slightly chewy licorice and blackberry confiture notes on the long, muscular finish. There is lots of stuffing here, so this will need a little time to stretch out. Drink now through 2014. 550 cases made. –JM

Offers firm, ripe, vivid wild raspberry, cranberry and tar scents that are tight and earthy in a pleasant way. Leaner and more structured than some of the new De Loach single-vineyard Pinots, yet very complete.

Offers a pleasant loamy clay earthiness as a foundation for the dried berry and savory herb notes. Complex and persistent, holding onto its earthy core, with touches of black tea and pencil lead.

The core flavors of anise, raspberry and savory herb run deep and persistent. Offers a stronger perky, spicy woodiness than the other De Loach Pinots from 2009, and as such may benefit from cellar time.

Crisp and lively, with appealing cherry and mineral aromas and focused raspberry, fresh sage and spice flavors. Tannins sneak in on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2018. 150 cases made. –TF

Bursts with fresh cherry and vanilla aromas that lead to plush, jammy raspberry and spiced cinnamon flavors. Drink now through 2017.

Editor's Choice . De Loach reaches into Lake County, not usually thought of as Zinfandel country, with tremendous results. This is a great wine by any standard. It shows some heat from high alcohol and some shriveled raisin tastes, but that’s part of a ripe Zin’s charm. Mostly, you’ll be impressed by waves of sweetly ripe cherries, chocolate and bacon, smooth tannins and a long, spicy finish.

Pinot Noir just doesn’t get richer than this. It floods the mouth with ripe flavors of raspberries and cherries, with fascinatingly earthy things, like truffles and pine cones. Vibrant acidity and a hint of furry tannins give it a fine structure. This upscale Pinot Noir is drinkable now and should evolve over the next six years.