Reviews

Catch this Chablis right now for the savory beebuzz of chamomile flavors, its sweetly ripe fruit reined in by tingling acidity. This finishes salty and fresh, a lovely young Chablis to decant for grilled lobster or langoustines.

This wine’s bold black fruit has gentleness, with plenty of energy and intensity, though most of what shows for the moment are complexities derived from oak. Gingerbread, sandalwood and musky spice surround the fruit, which, itself, may not begin to speak until it’s at least ten years old.

The Boisset family domaine, based in Vougeot, included some white parcels with long histories tied to the Abbaye de Cîteaux, as well as some prime plots of pinot noir. Their main parcel, 2.59 acres, is close to the top of the vineyard, with vines dating from the 1940s and ’50s to the early ’90s. A second parcel, at the bottom of the Clos, is just under an acre of vines planted in the mid-’80s. Their biodynamically farmed fruit comes together in a fragrant 2019, subtle rather than super-concentrated, bright, and rose-scented. Instead of weight, it offers length, continuing for minutes as it will continue for years in the cellar.

The monks of Cîteaux used this walled vineyard as their source of white wine for 700 years before the Revolution; it has remained planted to white grapes and remained intact, now in the hands of the Boisset family. The parcel is across the road from Clos Vougeot, northeast of the entrance to the château; the 7.53 acres of chardonnay, along with a little pinot gris and blanc, grow in white, calcareous soils, producing an ornate wine, saturated with honey and mineral power. It’s creamy and taut, needing time to show its layers of flavor, a sophisticate white take on Vougeot.

Spicy strawberry flavors fill out this rosé, with an inviting texture build on silky acidity and rich tannins. It could handle richer fare, like bouillabaisse or a soft bloomy cheese.

There's a darkness beyond the extract in this Bandol, a faint ground-coffee aroma that adds aromatic interest. The flavors contrast that savor, all cherry and cherry stem, and the wine ends on freshness.

Aromas of blackcurrant, redcurrant, rosemary and blackberry. Full-bodied with gentle, fine tannins. Nuanced, with notes of lead pencil and blackberry coming through clearly. Steady. Drink or hold.

Aromas of redcurrant, rosemary, wet stone and a subtle note of strawberry. Full-bodied with velvety tannins. Lovely depth and complexity here, with tension between the minerals and black and red fruit. Succinct finish. Delicious. Best after 2024.

Lovely aromas of dark fruit and berries, roses, black cherries, moss and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Nicely transparent, with currant and blackberry character. Sturdy and steady. Drink or hold.

Lovely nose of blueberries, currants, hazelnuts and mint chocolate. I like the texture of the tannins, which are plush and smooth, melting into the wine. Full-bodied, creamy and already delicious. Drink from 2023