Reviews

The Boisset family domaine, based in Vougeot, included some white parcels with long histories tied to the Abbaye de Cîteaux, as well as some prime plots of pinot noir. Their main parcel, 2.59 acres, is close to the top of the vineyard, with vines dating from the 1940s and ’50s to the early ’90s. A second parcel, at the bottom of the Clos, is just under an acre of vines planted in the mid-’80s. Their biodynamically farmed fruit comes together in a fragrant 2019, subtle rather than super-concentrated, bright, and rose-scented. Instead of weight, it offers length, continuing for minutes as it will continue for years in the cellar.

The monks of Cîteaux used this walled vineyard as their source of white wine for 700 years before the Revolution; it has remained planted to white grapes and remained intact, now in the hands of the Boisset family. The parcel is across the road from Clos Vougeot, northeast of the entrance to the château; the 7.53 acres of chardonnay, along with a little pinot gris and blanc, grow in white, calcareous soils, producing an ornate wine, saturated with honey and mineral power. It’s creamy and taut, needing time to show its layers of flavor, a sophisticate white take on Vougeot.

Aromas of blackcurrant, redcurrant, rosemary and blackberry. Full-bodied with gentle, fine tannins. Nuanced, with notes of lead pencil and blackberry coming through clearly. Steady. Drink or hold.

Aromas of redcurrant, rosemary, wet stone and a subtle note of strawberry. Full-bodied with velvety tannins. Lovely depth and complexity here, with tension between the minerals and black and red fruit. Succinct finish. Delicious. Best after 2024.

Lovely aromas of dark fruit and berries, roses, black cherries, moss and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Nicely transparent, with currant and blackberry character. Sturdy and steady. Drink or hold.

Lovely nose of blueberries, currants, hazelnuts and mint chocolate. I like the texture of the tannins, which are plush and smooth, melting into the wine. Full-bodied, creamy and already delicious. Drink from 2023

Aromas of crushed herbs, black tea and blackberries. Medium-to full-bodied with velvety tannins. Lovely depth and complexity here, with a bed of black fruit, earthy spice and forest herbs. Cigar box and bark come through. Best after 2024.

Baked blueberries, mint and chili chocolate here, followed by walnuts and praline. Solid and full. Excellent density, with attractive chewiness to the tannins. 94% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc. Try from 2024.

Perfumed aromas of sliced plum, rose petal, black and red cherry and gravel. Medium-to full-bodied with a fine, silky texture. A fruity and powerful wine with lovely depth and concentration. Very nice length here. Best after 2024.

Lovely aromas of dark fruit and berries, roses, black cherries, moss and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Nicely transparent, with currant and blackberry character. Sturdy and steady. Drink or hold.