Corseted by oak, this is a full-bore, generous wine for the vineyard, but as the black-walnut scent of oak dissipates with air, a complex and layered Vosne-Romanee begins to emerge. The fruit feels plump in the center, surrounded by oak and touches of Brett. But there's air in the tannins and the fruit, allowing some transparency, predicting the elegance this may attain with age.