Reviews

 This historic 5.63 acres of white grapes provided monks with their white wine at the Clos de Vougeot. The Boisset family has farmed the site under biodynamics since 2001, mainly chardonnay (95 percent), with a little pinot gris and blanc in the mix. That farming as well as the quality of the terroir both play a role in the performance of this wine at such a high level through two significantly different vintages, in 2013 and 2012 (below). The 2013 emphasizes kinetic energy, a fragrant chardonnay that washes over the palate like a river of stones. The depth and density of flavor is more about pale earthiness than fruit, the texture broad and lush, the firm finish hinting at spice. Sophisticated and elegant, this will gain from five years or more in the cellar.

This powerful white moves into red wine territory with touches of pale strawberry in its layered flavors. What’s more prominent is the ample leesiness, highlighted by scents of flower petals and lime zest. Along with that lime acidity, there’s enough salinity to cut through the richness of the flavor and keep the finish lively. Built to cellar for five years or more.

Brian Maloney, who also makes plenty of pinot noir for DeLoach, crafted this from the cold, late-ripening Bohemian Vineyard near Freestone and the somewhat warmer Swicegood Vineyard west of Sebastopol. There's a savory richness here that's satisfyingly complete, the windswept energy of the fruit cradled and softened by 14 months spent resting in French oak (35 percent new). Aromas of tarragon, cedar bark, smoke and dark plum harmonize in a structure that's lush and energetic, saturated with flavor but not heavy. Send it toward duck confit, either now or in another three or four years. 
 

Best Buy

For his 2013 appellation wine, winemaker Brian Maloney selected fruit from four vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley, including Heintz at the cool western edge of Green Valley and Becnel in the warmer hills along Westside Road. His gentle treatment of the fruit and use of mostly older barrels allows quiet, savory aromas of forest mushrooms and sandalwood to lead the way. The flavors slowly build toward a pure, rosy, red-fruited glow that's mouthwatering and gentle, yet utterly persuasive. The wine also happens to be a steal - and it would be delicious with sauteed mushrooms. 

A briny note of saline and pickle provide an intrigue to the entry of this wine, which is otherwise integrated in oak and medium to full bodied. Smooth and floral, it sings on the palate, revealing baked apple and pear around a hint of wild vanilla and herb. —V.B. 

This is a thick, rich and very ripe wine, with a charred back note making its way against higher-toned tastes of red raspberry and blackberry. The oak is integrated and the wine softly varietal, but it packs a punch on the palate. —V.B

Healthy dark red. Superripe, liqueur-like aromas of red cherry, damp earth, tobacco and dried rose. Lush, sweet and rich but also very pure, conveying a strong impression of terroir to its powerful flavors of dark fruits, minerals, spices and Gevrey earth. Turns drier and more classic on the back end. A very dense example of Charmes-Chambertin, but then these vines are in Mazoyères. Finishes with an enticing combination of sweetness and firm minerality. — Stephen Tanzer

The 2013 Syrah The Count’s Selection shows the bacon fat and dense blackberry and cassis fruit of Syrah, with a deep ruby/purple color, a lush medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, supple tannins, and is quite long, layered and rich. It should drink well for at least 10-12 years. It reminds me of a high-class Crozes-Hermitage from France.

The 2013 Proprietary Red The Aristocrat from Napa has a beautiful nose of crème de cassis, licorice and floral notes. It is full-bodied with sweet tannin, a multilayered mouthfeel and impressive texture and length. This is a beauty and, while accessible already, should age effortlessly for 15-20 or more years.