Reviews

Juicy and youthfully coiled up, with layers of plum, red currant and blackberry fruit that will unwind in time, carried by iron and sweet bay leaf notes that add energy through the sleek finish. Best from 2023 through 2034. 567 cases made.

This has a core of cassis, plum and blackberry fruit flavors held in reserve for now, while hints of smoldering humus, roasted alder and tobacco form a complex frame. A bit burly and toasty in style; cellaring should soften this somewhat. Best from 2023 through 2035. 250 cases made.

Enticing, with mulberry and loganberry fruit infused with red tea and incense, this has a more open feel than most typical Howell Mountain Cabs. Delivers a gush of licorice and raspberry on the finish. This has some tarry grip to keep it honest, but is a forward-styled version overall. Drink now through 2032. 137 cases made.

Ripe, with red and black currant fruit forming a solid core, but there's lift and freshness too, with floral and rooibos tea notes in the background. Nice acidity lends a racy edge, with an iron note underscoring the dark fruit-filled, toasty finish. Drink now through 2034. 148 cases made.

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru has an attractive nose with white pepper and subtle Provençal herbs aromas elevating this above the Village. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, well balanced with a slight citric note towards the finish. This has a bit of swagger, and it should drink well once in bottle for the next decade.

The 2021 Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru has a well-defined nose. Red berry fruit and distant sea spray scents gently gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly gritty tannins, compact and firmer in grip than Vougeraie's other cuvées with a pleasing saline finish. Enjoy this over 12-15 years.

The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru contains 100% whole bunches like the BonnesMares this year, but they are better assimilated. Red berry fruit, undergrowth and light tobacco scents gently unfold. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, rather spicy, building in the mouth with white pepper touches towards the finish. It's a lovely wine but not a top-drawer Musigny.

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from 114-yearold vines and is one of the few to contain stems this year, just 10%. It has an open-knit bouquet with red fruit, bay leaf and Earl Grey, nicely defined but certainly missing some power. The palate is clean and fresh with crunchy red fruit, slightly ferrous with a bit of dryness towards the finish. But there is a sense of complexity here, and I find this Charmes-Chambertin has plenty of character and sapidity.

The 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from three plots. It takes time to unfurl on the nose, eventually offering citrus fruit, popcorn and hints of Mirabelle. The palate is balanced with an attractive, slightly waxy texture. It shows fine depth with the mineralité eventually surfacing with aeration. Afford this three or four years in bottle.

The 2021 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly more oxidative in style compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet, with grilled walnut and a subtle florlike scent emerging with time. The palate is balanced with a vibrant opening. It has a little more horsepower than the Bâtard-Montrachet and a spicier finish. This gains intensity in the glass and does eventually overtake the Bâtard.