Mellow up front, this wine slowly reveals its powerful concentration as it releases flavor. The leesiness carries notes of barley and corn, then the wine tenses up, transitioning through the nutty flavors and herbal scents of green grapes before building to a blast of tart fruit. A tight young wine to hold for five years or more.
J. Moreau & Fils Reviews
Austere in its savory lees, this expands from a tight place into a plump and ample finish, even as its lasting flavors are bready, nutty and undeveloped. The overall impression is clean and fresh, slowly yielding scents of nut meats, orange meringue and lemon oil. Cool, spicy and compressed, this needs bottle age to mellow and expand.
A fifth of this wine finishes its fermentation in barrels, a move that points up the richness in flavors of chanterelles and puff pastry. Those notes are lifted by floral, gingery spice, their open, nutty intensity harking back to a time when producers in Burgundy were less worried about touches of oxidation in their white wines. A pleasure to drink now, this lasts long after each sip, infusing the breath with its elegant flavors.