Domaine de la Vougeraie Reviews

An ethereal red, offering aromas and flavors of rose, peony, wild strawberry, cherry, sandalwood, stone and toasty oak. Sleek and silky, with beautifully integrated tannins and a complex, well-delineated aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2042. - Bruce Sanderson

A sleek, intense red hallmarked by a beam of pure cherry flavors. While the cherry and red berry fruit, spice and stony mineral elements are locked up by the muscular structure, this is long and resilient on the finish. Best from 2028 through 2045.- Bruce Sanderson

A spicy red, this exudes cherry, sandalwood, vanilla and floral flavors, with an underlying vein of minerality. Bracing and vigorous, with midpalate intensity and a punchy aftertaste that expands for at least a minute. Best from 2027 through 2042. - Bruce Sanderson

Expressive, from the effusive aromas of rose, sandalwood, wild strawberry and cherry to the silky texture and the aftertaste of floral, fruit, spice and mineral influences. Harmonious, alluring and complex, this is hard to resist now, yet all indications suggest this has excellent aging potential. Best from 2027 through 2043. - Bruce Sanderson

An intense red, with macerated cherry, strawberry, graphite and floral flavors wrapped in toasty oak, underscored by a muscular structure. - Bruce Sanderson

Fragrant and supple, exuding strawberry, cherry, rose, sandalwood and cardamom flavors. Elegant in feel, harmonious and charming. - Bruce Sanderson

Grégory Patriat calls this "the beast", not because its expressions are but because it reminds him to take it easy here. He does a single punch down then lets it "infuse". The power of Grèves–whose power is further amped up given the concentrated fruit from these 70-to 80-year-old vines, is in evidence here –but in a gentle giant sort of way. Roaring with ripe blueberries and spiced Marasca cherries, there is an almost lusty amount of fruit packed onto the palate. This considered, the lightly grippy–and not at all drying –tannins are well-placed. Oak spice pops up on the youthfully firm finish.

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru has an attractive nose with white pepper and subtle Provençal herbs aromas elevating this above the Village. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, well balanced with a slight citric note towards the finish. This has a bit of swagger, and it should drink well once in bottle for the next decade.

The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru contains 100% whole bunches like the BonnesMares this year, but they are better assimilated. Red berry fruit, undergrowth and light tobacco scents gently unfold. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, rather spicy, building in the mouth with white pepper touches towards the finish. It's a lovely wine but not a top-drawer Musigny.

The 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from three plots. It takes time to unfurl on the nose, eventually offering citrus fruit, popcorn and hints of Mirabelle. The palate is balanced with an attractive, slightly waxy texture. It shows fine depth with the mineralité eventually surfacing with aeration. Afford this three or four years in bottle.

The 2021 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly more oxidative in style compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet, with grilled walnut and a subtle florlike scent emerging with time. The palate is balanced with a vibrant opening. It has a little more horsepower than the Bâtard-Montrachet and a spicier finish. This gains intensity in the glass and does eventually overtake the Bâtard.

The 2021 Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from two parcels, the En Charlemagne lieu-dit picked a week after Le Charlemagne. This has one of my favourite noses from Vougeraie; it's quite refined and complex, more mineraldriven with hints of dried white flowers. The palate is well balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and crisp with a touch of bitter lemon and orange rind towards the finish. This should age well in bottle and conveys a sense of class.