Domaine de la Vougeraie Reviews

The 2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes contains 80% whole bunch fruit and was one of the last to finish its malo (it had been racked three weeks earlier). The nose is clean and fresh, nicely focused with fine delineation. The palate has a pastille-like purity on the entry, supple tannin, quite powerful but with wonderful finesse and focus toward the finish. This is a clear step up from the Clos de Thorey for me. Superb.

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, also 100% whole cluster fruit, had a very open-knit, expressive bouquet that maybe felt a little monotone when compared directly with the Charmes-Chambertin. The palate is medium-bodied with abundant red berry fruit, almost pastille-like in purity, quite sensual although just missing that knockout, killer blow on the linear finish. This Bonnes-Mares prefers to play it safe. I would like to see that killer instinct that elevated the 2015 to a higher level.

The 2016 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru, which is 100% whole cluster from their single parcel of century old vines, has a tightly wound, quite floral bouquet that gradually opens with aeration but remains a little laconic compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe red berry fruit, fine mineralité, quite dense (especially toward the second half) with touches of blood orange and spice toward the finish. This gets more interesting as it goes along! Good potential.

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very elegant and poised bouquet, fine transparency here with superb delineation, not powerful but very precise and almost understated in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant chewiness to the tannin, good body, more assertive in the mouth than on the nose with a chalky texture toward the finish. Good length, lean and poised but fanning out with confidence—what a sublime expression of this famous vineyard.

The 2016 Charlemagne Grand Cru was showing some reduction on the nose, although there was a subtle peppermint scent that gradually eked out with aeration. The palate is lively and tensile with a crisp line of acidity, bright and vivacious with good density on the spiced finish. I adore the persistence here—a Charlemagne with great potential, perhaps one of the best ever produced from these parcels. Kingly!

The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was touched more by the frost than other vineyards owned by Vougeraie, and yet they still managed a supremely well-crafted and delicious wine. It has a focused and mineral-rich bouquet with scents of oyster shell and something estuarine on the nose. The palate has a feisty and lively entry, a keen line of acidity, more depth and concentration than the Bienvenue and with a good persistence on the finish. This is excellent.