The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru, which contains 65% whole-bunch fruit, has an attractive, mineral-rich bouquet that seems very well defined. The fleshy, medium-bodied palate offers good density and a lot more fruit intensity than the Clos de Thorey, if not quite delivering the complexity on the finish that you might have expected. But certainly, this is delicious to drink.
Domaine de la Vougeraie Reviews
The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Thorey 1er Cru contains 1.5 hectares of 60-year-old vines and 1.5 hectares planted in 2012. Including 15% whole-bunch fruit, it has a fragrant, earthy bouquet that just needs a little more fruit intensity at this stage. The palate is supple and silky on the entry, red cherries intermingling with crushed strawberry and black pepper notes, leading to an elegant and approachable finish. It should give a decade’s worth of drinking pleasure.
The 2018 Vougeot Le Clos du Prieuré Blanc 1er Cru comes from a parcel near the Vouge River, which unfortunately leaves the vines vulnerable to hungry ducks. The bouquet is well defined with a little more mineral tension than the Beaune Blanc tasted alongside. The well-balanced palate offers passion fruit and pineapple notes and a fine bead of acidity; the prudent 20% new oak is just right. Excellent.
The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, due for bottling at the end of April with just one or two bâtonnages, has a delightful bouquet with notes of citrus fruit, praline and a touch of white chocolate. The elegant palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity and moderate weight, that soupçon of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc lending a little more complexity on the finish than if it was pure Chardonnay. Very fine.
The 2018 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru contains 65% whole-bunch fruit. The well-defined nose features brambly black fruit, crushed stone/powdered gravel and light tobacco scents. The medium-bodied palate is linear, precise and elegant, delivering fine-grained tannins with moderate grip and a slightly conservative finish. I suspect this will ultimately turn out to be a well-crafted yet early-drinking Corton.
The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from two parcels that are picked three or four days apart and only blended together just prior to bottling. Containing 65% whole-bunch fruit, it has a stemmy, almost Dujac-like bouquet that feels well defined albeit not to everyone’s taste. The well-balanced, medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannin, a fine line of acidity and dark cherries mixed with truffle and cedar toward the precise if not overly concentrated finish. Fine.
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from three parcels, two up on the terraces on terre blanche soils and one on terre rouge_, from mainly 65-year-old vines and using 90% whole bunch. It has a crisp bouquet with touches of dark chocolate and tobacco infusing the black fruit, becoming earthier with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins matched by a keen thread of acidity. This feels gentle and approachable for a Grand Cru, and quite focused, with a lilting finish. Fine.
The 2018 Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from two parcels in Le Charlemagne, in Aloxe-Corton and En Charlemagne on the Pernand side, picked one week apart since the latter takes longer to ripen. It has an excellent bouquet of intense pressed flowers and chalk-infused citrus fruit. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, poised and pretty, revealing orange peel and touches of ginger toward the finish. Drink over the next 12–15 years.
The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a reserved, backward bouquet that feels a little sultry after the more expressive Charlemagne. The palate is better, though, offering white peach and mango notes. A more tropical-tinged Bâtard-Montrachet but counterbalanced by the acidity. A touch of spice emerges toward the finish.
The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a little more intensity than the Bâtard-Montrachet and is more promising as a result. Desiccated orange peel, mango and light peach aromas develop in the glass, showing fine delineation. The palate is well balanced with a touch of mint on the entry and a keen thread of acidity. Nicely poised and delivering good depth on the finish, if not quite the tension of some of the finest exponents of this vineyard. Still, it should drink well for 15–20 years.
The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight!
This parcel faces east from the top of the hill above the village of Pommard. The vines, replanted in the second half of the 1980s, cover 2.73 acres of pebbly, chalky soil, the site organically certified since 2000. The wine itself is immediately complex, with the kind of sumptuous oak integration that elevates the tart cherry flavors. The wine keeps juicing up out of its tannins with delicate yet persistent power, the unambiguous message of the vineyard charged by its marriage with oak into something delicious.
Literally grown in Jean-Claude Boisset's garden, with a painterly view of the Clos de Vougeot, this is always fun to serve in a blind tasting. It's toasty, sappy and reductive, with flinty, struck-match aromas and hints of cashew and beeswax. It lingers enticingly on the palate.
A powerful and serious red Burgundy, this is a blend from two parcels in Gilly-lès-Citeaux, near the domaine’s base in Vougeot, and two parcels in Beaune. It layers rose scents and flavors of cranberry and anise over substantial tannins, the structure sophisticated and firm.
Black cherry and toasty vanilla aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this muscular red. Hints of tobacco and chocolate linger. The firm structure begs for patience.
Bright medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, cherry and spices. Offers more energy and definition than the Clos du Roi, with higher-pitched flavors of spices and red fruits. A juicy Beaune wine with a touch of youthful bitterness on the back end, but sound acids and tannins give grip to the finish.
Catch this as a young wine, while the tension in its structure elevates the delicate dried herb notes, and Brett adds detail to the tannins, a little dry, but spicy and delicious. Packed with a sweet cherry fruit, this is solidly built Gevrey, ready to drink with a steak.
The 2014 Chambolle-Musigny Village includes two new vineyards compared to last year from Les Gruenchers and les Fremiets. It has an attractive bouquet, nicely detailed with wilted rose petals infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is fresh and attractive with crisp, red cherry and strawberry fruit, the 40% new oak a little conspicuous towards the finish, though I think that will be assimilated with 2-3 years in bottle.
Soft notes of petrol sit atop the mostly floral and white orchard fruit scents. The rich, round and very generously proportioned flavors are forward o the point of being almost soft and this easy-to-like effort should drink well immediately.
A more deeply pitched and markedly earthier nose exhibits notes of various
dark berries and a hint of herbal tea. There is reasonably good depth to the
round and punchy flavors that deliver acceptable persistence on the dusty
and relatively fine finish. There is a hint of dryness but it’s discreet.