This wine rested under a veil of yeasts for six years and three months. The 228-liter barrels were all at least five years old when the aging began. Now it offers savory, old-fashioned pleasures, like a walk in the rain, if that mist were a cloud of bitter-almond flavor. With two hours open, or two days, it keeps giving more freshness, with apple and pear notes rising out of the savory layers of intensity—cumin spice, chicken broth, turmeric—while a rasp of chalk and salt make it mouthwatering. The beautiful evolution with air predicts a long development in the cellar.