Reticent, brooding aromas of kirsch and dark berries. Supple but a bit youthfully brooding in the middle palate, with blackberry, black cherry and licorice flavors coming across as a bit stunted today. Can't quite match the Bonnes-Mares for inner-mouth energy or detail, but at a crop level of 25 hectoliters per hectare, this is impressively concentrated. The darker fruit character carries through on the long finish. Aeration brought increased sweetness, spice character and pliancy, suggesting that this wine will enjoy a graceful evolution in bottle. -- Stephen Tanzer