Reticent, brooding aromas of kirsch and dark berries. Supple but a bit youthfully brooding in the middle palate, with blackberry, black cherry and licorice flavors coming across as a bit stunted today. Can't quite match the Bonnes-Mares for inner-mouth energy or detail, but at a crop level of 25 hectoliters per hectare, this is impressively concentrated. The darker fruit character carries through on the long finish. Aeration brought increased sweetness, spice character and pliancy, suggesting that this wine will enjoy a graceful evolution in bottle. -- Stephen Tanzer
Domaine de la Vougeraie Reviews
Deep medium red. Subdued but pretty aromas of dark cherry, wild herbs and licorice. Broad and silky on entry, then much more dense and backward in the middle palate; the largest-scaled of the Domaine de la Vougeraie 2015s to this point but very slow to evolve. The slightly medicinal finish displays substantial dusty tannins and a strong licorice quality. Still quite reserved but very pure, spicy and long. In fact, this wine seemed to gain in power after I spit it. Vincent ranks this wine with 2014 and 2010 as his favorite vintages here for Clos Vougeot, but it will require considerable patience. -- Stephen Tanzer
Healthy medium red. Subtle aromas of redcurrant, spices and earth, plus a hint of smoke. A supple, sweet, attractive midweight without any edges. Intense red fruits and dusty brown spices carry very well through the fine-grained finish. Suavely tannic for Corton, this wine should have very good staying power in the bottle. -- Stephen Tanzer
Good medium red. Pure but subdued aromas of currant, black cherry, smoky stone, licorice and violet. Intensely flavored and evolving slowly, combining a restrained sweetness and good salty minerality. Darker in its fruit character than the Clos de Thorey. The wine's strong, spicy, tannic finish calls for more élevage. -- Stephen Tanzer
Healthy medium red. Coolish and vibrant on the nose, with cherry and berry flavors complicated by a whiff of vanilla and obvious spicy oak. Silky and suave in the mouth, offering a lovely combination of volume and finesse; the fresher combe character comes through clearly. Red and darker berry flavors are complicated by a touch of savory minerality. Not a thick style but nicely perfumed. Finishes with smooth tannins and noteworthy length. -- Stephen Tanzer
The standout among all the Bourgogne rouge we tasted for this issue, this smells like Burgundy ("Tart and stinky," said Sarah Looper of SevenFifty.com. Burgundy needs to stink. It shouldn't smell like the buxom fruit of California.") It's a blend focoused on clay soils, from two parcels in Gilly-lès-Citeaux (east of the D974, near Vougeot and Chambolle), and two parcels in Beaune (one-quarter of the blend comes from Montèe Rouge, where the vines date to the early 1950s). Harmonious, red fruited, with bright sour cherry flavors, delicate herb flavor tannins and meaty notes, this is soft on acidity in the end, even as the aroma draws you back for another sip.
Catch this as a young wine, while the tension in its structure elevates the delicate dried herb notes, and Brett adds detail to the tannins, a little dry, but spicy and delicious. Packed with a sweet cherry fruit, this is solidly built Gevrey, ready to drink with a steak.
Lime and lime blossom aromas lead off, with apple, lemon and spice notes underneath. Though on the slim, linear side, this is balanced and ends with a chalky feel. Drink now through 2019. —B.S.
The 2014 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Corvées Pagets was showing just a touch of reduction when I tasted it from barrel, though there seemed to be sufficient fruit concentration underneath. The palate is medium-bodied, the new oak a little more conspicuous here and coating the finish in a thin film of dark chocolate. That should be absorbed by the time of bottling, but I feel this is a slightly more modern style of Nuits Saint Georges (perhaps because it was completely destemmed?). I would like to see more terroir come through by the time of bottling.
The 2014 Chambolle-Musigny Village includes two new vineyards compared to last year from Les Gruenchers and les Fremiets. It has an attractive bouquet, nicely detailed with wilted rose petals infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is fresh and attractive with crisp, red cherry and strawberry fruit, the 40% new oak a little conspicuous towards the finish, though I think that will be assimilated with 2-3 years in bottle.
The 2014 Beaune 1Er Cru Clos du Roi, reduced from five to two barrels this year, has a well defined, rose petal infused nose with crushed strawberry and Morello cherry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, a keen line of acidity, not a powerful or structured Clos du Roi, but "queenly" with a crisp, nicely poised, elegant finish. This deserves a light round of applause considering how this vineyard was impacted by hail.
Very aromatic, offering sandalwood, incense, floral and berry notes, backed by sweet, ripe cherry and raspberry flavors and a silky texture. Structured and racy, this builds to a long, complex and expansive finish. –BS
Soft notes of petrol sit atop the mostly floral and white orchard fruit scents. The rich, round and very generously proportioned flavors are forward o the point of being almost soft and this easy-to-like effort should drink well immediately.
Bright red. Musky, lightly leesy aromas of strawberry and garrigue. Supple red cherry fruit shows an almost liqueur-like ripeness. This rather creamy Pommard finishes with substantial ripe tannins.