J. Moreau & Fils Press

Only a slight quiver of smokiness intrudes on the wet chalk and lemon nose of this wine. The palate is striking in its serenity and balance, an apt representation of the ripe 2018 vintage. It offers immense juiciness but somehow, the age-old limestone complexity takes the lead, affirming that over the years, only depth will matter. Nonetheless, the wine has immense charm, smooth texture and absolute freshness. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Notes of yeast, chalk, ripe Amalfi lemon peel and white summer blossom unite into a seductive, creamy nose on this wine. Toasty, oaky smoke also hovers but is beautifully subdued. The palate also encompasses these notions but focuses on concentrated, stony depth and pithy texture. It's smooth, cool and bold. Give this elegant wine some time. Drink 2022–2040. ANNE KREBIEHL MW